BOLOGNESE SAUCE

Bolognese Sauce

When I was growing up,  the norm for pasta, or macaroni as we called it, was RED GRAVY.  The only variations to this was what you put in the gravy.  There were always meatballs in the gravy.  But different families included different meats.  Typically, we used pork neck bones and Italian sausage in addition to the meatballs.  Occasionally my mom would use a chuck roast and let that simmer in the gravy for hours.  Truly,  I never knew there were other sauces to use on pasta except red gravy.  There were some families, mostly non-Italians that made what we called ‘dirty gravy’. Basically it was ground beef, first browned in a sauce pan and then tomato sauce added and cooked. Only dish my mom ever used browned ground beef was for chili.

It really wasn’t until I was nearly 20 when I first was introduced to Northern Italian cuisine and their sauces, traditionally using little or no tomatoes. One of most famous sauces is Bolognese sauce.  When I first saw this recipe I didn’t think much of it because it called for ground beef and cut up vegetables.  But it was always something I wanted to try. Here’s a recipe for Bolognese Sauce I came across and  have always wanted to try. I  finally took the time to do it  Be forewarned. It’s basically an easy recipe.  The most difficult part is cutting the vegetables.  But it is a recipe which requires a few hours of overseeing.  But it is worth the effort. 

When I did this, I doubled the recipe.   The initial preparation and chopping took a bit longer.  The simmering and evaporating process will take much longer.  It added at least 90 minutes to the cooking. However, I froze half of the sauce and will have it ready for the next use.

Please NO substitutions with this recipe such as using very lean meat and low fat milk.  The success of this sauce relies on the fat contact of the meat and milk.  You probably won't make this dish often so it's worth it. I did find that after the sauce was made and I did the taste test, I did add a bit more salt.  But follow the recipe closely. You can can always add more salt to taste.  Can't take it out.

BOLOGNESE SAUCE

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup chopped onion (half a medium sized onion)

2/3 cups chopped celery (2 or 3 stalks)

2/3 cups chopped carrots (2 medium carrots or 8 baby carrots)

3/4 pound ground beef chuck or 3/8 pound each of ground beef and ground pork (Note it is worth it to go to the meat counter to have the butcher weigh it. However, if you buy the packaged meat you can always use the rest for making meatballs.  A recipe for making meatballs is in this blog.)

1 cup of whole milk

1/8 teaspoon of nutmeg

1 cup dry white wine

1-1/2 cups (I 28 ounce can makes about 1-1/2 of canned Italian plum tomatoes, cut up and with their juices.

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (there is a difference!)

1 to 1 1/2 lbs. fettuccine or linguine, cooked separately

Preparation

1.     Put oil, butter and chopped onion in a pot or large skillet and turn heat on to medium. Cook and stir the onion until it becomes translucent, about 2 minutes.

2.     Add chopped celery and carrots and cook an additional 2 minutes, or until the vegetables are coated well.

3.     Add the ground meat, salt and pepper. Crumble the meat with a fork or wooden spoon, stirring until meat is lightly browned.

4.     Add the milk and let it simmer gently, stirring frequently, until all the milk has been incorporated and evaporated into the mixture complete.

5.     Add nutmeg and stir.

6.     Add the white wine, let it simmer gently, stirring frequently, until all the wine has been incorporated.

7.     Add the tomatoes and incorporate them into the mixture.  Raise heat a bit until tomatoes start to bubble. Immediately lower the heat until very few bubbles appears.

8.     Cook uncovered for at least 3 hours or more until the oils from the fat separate from meat, stirring now and then.  Do not RUSH this sauce.

9.     Cook your fettuccine or linguine, drain (DO NOT RINSE) and toss the pasta with the Bolognese sauce.

10.  Sprinkle a good grade of Parmesan cheese (please DO NOT EVER USE the cheese that comes in a came or already grated.  Check the label. They contain cellulose which is nothing more than wood chips)

11.   Serve immediately with your choice of white wine

DINNER TIME

Please leave me your comments.

1107

1107

1107 – Eleven O Seven – Racine Avenue. For me these are not merely numbers or a street name; they mean so much more. When I hear or say these words, memories or images come from all over and disseminate in my mind’s eye to invoke not images but emotions. 1107 is the address where my mom’s family lived. Racine Avenue ran perpendicular to Taylor Street, the heart of Chicago’s little Italy. My mom, the fifth child of my grandparents, was the first to be born in that building in 1916. My mother’s grandparents, great aunts, uncle and his family, also lived in the building.  For her entire life, my mom considered 1107 her home. And so did the rest of the family, including my generation.

 

When I was born, my parents lived a few blocks away, 810 Bishop Street. It was a relatively short distance from Racine Avenue. I can remember walking back and forth from Bishop Street and Racine Avenue. I actually knew the route by myself. When I was about 4 years old, I ‘ran away’ from home and headed to 1107 on my own. I was so proud of myself but needless to say, I was definitely in hot water. My mom said she grounded me for days. I never did that again. My mom was devoted to our church, Holy Family, and when my sister was old enough to start school, my parents sent her there. That’s when my parents decided to move back to Racine Avenue, to be closer to the school and church. We moved 5 houses down from 1107 to 1117. 1117 forever became HOME for me.

 

I smile when I think that in my mom’s immediate family there were 4 sisters and 3 of them lived on the same block, Aunt Ange, Aunt Bridgie and my mom. My mom’s 4^th sister, Aunt Lu, was the furthest away in Indiana (I need to write about the times spent visiting her someday too). The two brothers of the family lived on the South Side. None the less, all our families were close. My uncles and their families were always on Racine Avenue. And my two cousins from Indiana spent a lot of time there too.  I can remember Christmases when all the family got together and we kids slept 5 in a bed and floors were covered with sleeping bodies.  I wouldn’t trade those memories for anything.

The doors were always open.  Seriously, we never locked our doors. In the summer time, when the summer heat was oppressive, the doors were left wide open and only the screen were shut to allow a breeze to flow the apartments.  We were all free to come and go into each other’s home.  My oldest cousin, Dan Purciarello, was dating his soon to be wife Eleanor, who literally lived next door at 1109.  When he was courting her, he spent the night at 1107.  My uncle and aunt and cousins were already asleep. But the door was left open and Dan merely walked in and slept on the sofa.

I wouldn’t even try to guess how many family gatherings were held at 1107. And of course, at all gatherings there was food. Never was there a gathering without food. And I am talking about meals and not just chips and dips and such. I hesitate to say that this is only an Italian trait, but virtually with everything that mattered in our lives, food was prominently present. Literally, from birth to death and everything in between food was present. Food was the focal point of EVERYTHING.

 

Because it is Easter again, I am going to Post My Auntie Ange's Calzone (her version of Easter Pie)recipe again.

By far the greatest food memory I have is Auntie Ang's Calzone.  This was definitely a once year event. She would start to perpare it days in advance and would give each family a huge piece.  As I got older and on my own, I got my own piece.   I am  putting that recipe in here exactly as she wrote it down and passed it on. 

ENJOY. Please leave your comments at the end of the recipe.

 

EASTER PIZZA – CALZONE (AUNTIE ANGE’S RECIPE)

DOUGH:

3 OR 4 CUPS FLOUR

1/2 TEASPOON SALT (optional)

3/4  TEASPOON BAKING POWDER

1 1/2 TABLESPOONS SUGAR

3/8 CUP OIL

3/4 CUP MILK

3 EGGS

Sift dry ingredients, beat eggs, add milk and oil.  Add dry ingredients a little at a time.  Let dough rest in refrigerator for ½ hour before rolling out.  Divide into 2 pieces (1 for top and 1 for bottom).  Add filling, then top crust, hold with toothpicks on top and pinch with fork around the sides.  Rub or brush top with 2 egg yolks.  Bake at 350 until done (45 minutes to 1 hour).

FILLING FOR SAUSAGE CALZONE:

5 POUNDS ITALIAN SAUSAGE (hot or mild)

 (Or 5 pounds of pork butt mix.  Add red pepper, salt and fennel seed.  Mix well.)

1 TO 1 1/2  POUND MOZZARELLA CHEESE CUBED

½ TO 1 CUP GRATED CHEESE (Parmesian, Aziago or Romano)

4 EGGS

Brown Sausage and drain.  Add mozzarella, grated cheese and eggs.  Put in crust and cover with top crust.  Bake until done (should be a nice golden brown color).

FILLING FOR SWEET CALZONE:

3 POUNDS RICOTTA

1/2 CUP SUGAR

1 HEAPING TEASPOON CINNAMON

3 EGGS

Mix well and put in crust and bake until done 

ROAST PORK

 

Several years ago I had the opportunity to take a vacation to Florence, Italy.  While there I met up with an American expatriate who married a Florentine and used her apartment to conduct cooking classes.  Her apartment was located a few short blocks to the Mercato Centale.  Take the time to look this up on the internet.  

 

This recipe was one of the many dishes we prepared that day. 

Ingredients

 

2 ½ - 3 lbs.  boneless pork roast or loin

You could get a roast with the bone still on.  Have butcher slice away the bone from the roast or you could do it yourself.  After you have sliced the roast and placed the herbs inside, tie the roast AND the bone together.    When ready to serve, discard bone

3 cloves of garlic

Fresh Rosemary, leaves removed from stems

Fresh Sage

Sea Salt

¼ cup of olive oil

1 cup of white wine

 

Pre heat oven to 400 degrees

 

PORK ROAST, TUSCAN STYLE

 

 

1.     On a cutting board, place garlic, Rosemary, Sage and sea salt and chop finely with a mezzaluna or chef’s knife.  You can also do this in a food processor.

 

 

 

Just a note about herbs.  I always try to use fresh herbs, not dried, when cooking, mostly parsley, basil, garlic and sage.  The only exception to this for me is oregano.  I am not sure why I prefer dry oregano.  It may have something to do with oil essence of fresh oregano.  There are recipes that call for 2 or 3 tablespoons of say parsley.  Food stores don't sell parsley in very small amounts.  Parsley is sold in bunches.  I buy at least 2 bunches of parsley at time.  The stems are then trimmed and place the parsley in a food processer and chop. I transfer the chopped parsley in containers that have lids.  When using what I need for a particular recipe and put the rest in the freezer for future use. 

Each year I grow basil on my patio balcony harvest it time to time and make pesto, freeze it small containers and use as needed.  I have basil all year round.

 



2.     With a sharp knife, slice the pork roast nearly halfway through, lengthwise.

3.     Spread about 4 tablespoons of the herb mixture throughout the inside of the roast. Close and tie the roast with string.  Rub another tablespoon of the herbs on the outside of the roast.

 

4.     Place in oven for about 10 minutes. 

Here's another one of those pots that was given to my parents as a wedding gift in 1941.  Not only can this pot be used on the stove top but it is great for roasting in the oven.

 

5.     Reduce heat to 350 degrees and baste roast with the olive oil and the white wine. 

6.     Roast in oven for about an hour and half, basting it every 10 minutes or so.

7.     Remove from oven and let set for about 10 minutes before slicing.

 As always, please feel free to add comments below.  Also,  make sure you scroll down for more recipes.

 

 

 

EASIEST AND BEST BREAD I HAVE EVER MADE

 

My best student and teacher, Christina Bella Consalvo Perry,  shared this recipe with me and I need to share it to you here.

 I have tried numerous bread making recipes, have spent tons of money on ingredients and equipment including baking stones.  I have researched numerous cook books and even ‘consulted’ James Beard but could never make a good loaf of bread.  Once in a while I pull out my old bread machine and nothing I have done comes close to this easy recipe.  (I think the bread machine is off to Goodwill!)

 

There is nothing special you need for this recipe except a Dutch Oven. If you have one, here is an excuse to use it. If you don’t, buy it.  The one below was a wedding gift my mom and dad received.  They were married on May 3, 1941.  This is just one of several pots they received.  My mom called them her Guardian Service set.   She used these pots for nearly everything she cooked from vegetables to soups to roasts and especially for her recipe for Eggplant Parmesan.

 

 

The ingredients  could not be more basic.  I would think that most kitchen pantries and cupboards have them in stock.

3 cups of flour ( I have only used bread flour but the original recipe did mentioned all purpose flour is sufficient. I have a friend who has suggestion using a combination of both.  I have yet to try that)
1 teaspoon of active dry yeast
1 teaspoon of salt
1 1/2 cups of warm water

Seriously,  that's all the ingredients you need for this recipe.

 

 

Directions:

1. Whisk, flour, yeast and salt in a 4 quart bowl.  If you have a bowl with a cover that will definitely work well.  If you don't have a bowl with a cover, plastic wrap  tightly fitted will work just as well
2. Add the warm water (not hot as hot water will kill the yeast) and vigorously mix with a wooden spoon until the dough is mixed well.  The dough will be very sticky but that's is OK.  Cover the bowl and set aside for 12-18 hours.  I have left it aside for nearly 24 a few times also.

 

 

 

 

 

 



    3.  Place covered Dutch Oven pot in an oven and preheat to 450 degrees for 30      
         minutes.
    4.  Meanwhile, scrape the risen dough onto a heavily floured surface remembering
         that the dough will be very sticky.
    5.  With floured hands, gently shape the dough into a round loaf.  Use enough flour
          so the dough doesn't stick.  DO NOT KNEAD. 
    6.  Let the loaf just sit there until the pot and the oven have preheated.
    7.  Remove the hot pot from the oven and quickly and  gently place the dough in the
         pot returning it the oven for 30 minutes.
    8.  After 30 minutes, carefully remove the cover from your Dutch Oven and return
         the pot to the oven for another 10-15 minutes.
    9.  Finally remove the pot from the stove and carefully slide the bread onto a cooling
         rack. 

Give it a chance to cool and ECCO.

Please try this recipe and let me know your results.    As always, please leave your comments below.

THE IMBRAS

Over the years we all make friends. Outside of family, our friendships start the first day of school. I am fortunate that my mom saved many of my group class pictures and I can remember most of those boys and girls as friends. I look at my kindergarten class picture and pick out friends I had all through grade school and some even lasting through high school. It’s rare, but it happens that we form lifetime relationships and friendships. In college, I met two of my very best friends, Jim and Kathy Manchester. After over 40 years, our friendship is still strong. I have no doubt that that friendship will last our lifetimes. However, what are even rarer are friendships that transcend generations.

 

In an earlier blog, I introduced you to my Godfather, Salvatore Imbraguglio. Compadre Terry, as he was affectionately referred, was born in Cefalu, Sicily. He immigrated to the United States, via New Orleans, around the turn of the 20^th century. How he got to Chicago I do not know. The story I got from my mom on how he became acquainted with the family was pretty ordinary. My grandparents lived at 1107 South Racine. Salvatore was moving into 1105, right next door when my grandfather, Dan, saw him carrying his furniture and just began helping him. Thus began a friendship between the two families that has lasted nearly 100 years.

 

The Purciarello’s and the Imbra’s (Imbraguglio was shortened to Imbra) became fast friends. Compadre Terry’s wife’s name was Ida, also affectionately known as Compadre Ida. (Just as an aside, Compadre Ida was born in the United States, but when she married Salvatore, she lost her citizenship and to reapply for it as an alien. Fortunately, our immigration laws have changed.) They had four sons, Anthony (Nino), Mariano (Marty), John and Salvatore (J R). It’s hard to describe the relationships between the two families because for me I have known them all my life. My Aunt Ang was godmother to one of the boys; Compadre Ida was godmother to one of my aunts. My mother chose Compadre Ida sister’s Rose, as her sponsor for Confirmation. Marty was an usher at my parents’ wedding and Compadre Terry became my godfather. My mother’s best childhood friend, Marge Bongiorno married Nino. And my cousin Dan’s wife, Eleanor, was chosen godmother for Marty’s daughter, Ida. It’s the Catholic religion that reinforced the relationships between the two families. My generation is friends with the third generation of Imbra’s.

 

I just found out that John, one of four sons of Salvatore and Ida passed away.  John was a minor league ballplayer.  He is pictured here with Rocky Marciano, an Italian-American profession fighter. It’s to John that I dedicate this story

 

For this entry, I have chosen Chicken Marsala. Marsala wine is produced in Sicily, the home of my godfather, Salvatore. Marsala wine was traditionally served as an aperitif between the first and second courses of a meal. Contemporary diners will serve it chilled with Parmesan, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, and other spicy cheeses, with fruits or pastries, or at room temperature as a dessert wine.^[ Marsala wine is frequently used in cooking, and is especially prevalent in Italian restaurants in the United States. A typical Marsala sauce, for example, involves reducing the wine almost to a syrup with onions or shallots, then adding mushrooms and herbs. One of the most popular Marsala recipes is chicken Marsala, in which flour-coated pounded chicken breast halves are braised in a mixture of Marsala, butter, olive oil, mushrooms, and spices.^[11] Marsala is also used in some risotto recipes, and is used to produce rich Italian desserts such as zabaglione.

 

Enjoy

CHICKEN MARSALA

4 boneless chicken breasts, about 5 – 6 ounces each

½ cup of flour

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon pepper

1 tbs. olive oil

½ cup Marsala wine

½ cup chicken stock

Juice of 1 lemon

½ cup sliced mushrooms

1.     Pound chicken breasts between two sheets of plastic wrap to about ¼ inch.

2.     Mix flour, salt and pepper in a shallow dish and coat chicken on both sides

3.     Heat oil in large skillet and place chicken on both sides and quickly brown on both sides.  Remove chicken and place aside.

4.     Add the Marsala wine and scrap bottom of skillet and heat for 2 minutes.

5.     Add chick stock, lemon and mushrooms, stir and over a low heat cook for about 10 minutes or until sauce is partially reduced.

6.     Return browned chicken to skillet, cover and cook an additional 5 minutes or until chicken is done.

7.     Serve on a platter and pour all the sauce over the chicken

EASTER 2013

EASTER PIZZA – CALZONE (AUNTIE ANGE’S RECIPE

It's that time again to repeat my favorite Easter Recipe.


The Easter weekend is here. I can look back at the years and remember all those Easters spent on Racine Avenue. It evokes so many many fond memories. Of the many memories, I can still picture Auntie Ang taking Rocco, Patty Boy and me to RB's. It was located at the intersection of Ashland, Milwaukee and Division, near the Wicker Park neighborhood. I think we walked to Ashland Avenue and caught the CTA Bus and headed North. There we got to pick out new Easter clothes. I am sure we got clothes during the year but this was special. We got to buy them all at once, shoes, pants, shirts and even hats if it were the style.

Another part of Easter were the Church Services. We all went to Catholic Schools as kids - when tuitions were affordable to working class families and ALL of the teachers were nuns and priests. We were required to attend all the Holy Week services. Rocco, Pat and I were altar boys and participated in the services on the altar for servarl years.

For years, my mom would make Easter baskets for all the cousins. I can remember waking up on Easter morning and seeing the dining room table full with Easter baskets.

And, of course, Easter meant food and lots of it. We fasted all during Lent so Easter meant the breaking of that fast and indulging in the great food preparted for Easter. My dad's family celebrated Easter Breakfast with pickled pigs' feet. I can honestly say, I never ever in my life (nor I doubt that I will) ate it. I can still see and smell the pigs' feet in the pot on Holy Saturday evening cooking on my mother's stove!!!! Ha. Of course, I look at that now with great fondness and smiles.

By far the greatest food memory I have is Auntie Ang's Calzone. This was definitely a once year event. She would start to perpare it days in advance and would give each family a huge piece. As I got older and on my own, I got my own piece. I am putting that recipe in here exactly as she wrote it down and passed it on.

ENJOY. Please try this recipe. It's worth the time and effort. As always, leave your comments at the end of this post.

EASTER PIZZA – CALZONE (AUNTIE ANGE’S RECIPE)

DOUGH:

3 OR 4 CUPS FLOUR

1/2 TEASPOON SALT (optional)

3/4 TEASPOON BAKING POWDER

1 1/2 TABLESPOONS SUGAR

3/8 CUP OIL

3/4 CUP MILK

3 EGGS

Sift dry ingredients, beat eggs, add milk and oil. Add dry ingredients a little at a time. Let dough rest in refrigerator for ½ hour before rolling out. Divide into 2 pieces (1 for top and 1 for bottom). Add filling, then top crust, hold with toothpicks on top and pinch with fork around the sides. Rub or brush top with 2 egg yolks. Bake at 350 until done (45 minutes to 1 hour).

FILLING FOR SAUSAGE CALZONE:

5 POUNDS ITALIAN SAUSAGE (hot or mild)

(Or 5 pounds of pork butt mix. Add red pepper, salt and fennel seed. Mix well.)

1 TO 1 1/2 POUND MOZZARELLA CHEESE CUBED

½ TO 1 CUP GRATED CHEESE (Parmesian, Aziago or Romano)

4 EGGS

Brown Sausage and drain. Add mozzarella, grated cheese and eggs. Put in crust and cover with top crust. Bake until done (should be a nice golden brown color).

FILLING FOR SWEET CALZONE:

3 POUNDS RICOTTA

1/2 CUP SUGAR

1 HEAPING TEASPOON CINNAMON

3 EGGS

Mix well and put in crust and bake until done.

MY GODFATHER SALVATORE

Saying you were Italian AND say you were Catholic to me was redundant. Your Italian, therefore you are Catholic.  We did actually have relatives who weren't Catholic.  My mom told me that they were 'duped' in changing their religion by a fast talking PROTESTANT minister. Yet it didn't affect the relationship because after all they were still family.  It wasn't until I was 33 years old and living in New York City did I actually meet an Italian who was Jewish (Was was that?)

The Italian/American subculture was and, to a large extent, is intertwined with religion..  Being born in the same family is the primary connection.  And, of course this means aunts, uncles, cousins, 2nd cousins and even 3rd cousins.  I went to a family reunion this past winter and meet 3rd cousins whom I had seen in years.(But that's another story.)  To a lesser extent, family also meant your cousins' Aunts and Uncles. I can remember referring to my Aunt Ang's sisters-in-laws and brothers-in-law as Aunt and Uncle.  And they referred to my mom and dad as Aunt and Uncle.

And just as important as being related by BLOOD, was the relationship you had with people contected with RELIGION. The term COMPARE (GUMANDI in Italian dialect.)  I remember in the film The Godfather, an American referred to all Italians as GUMBAS.  He meant as a derogatory term.   But being a COMPARE to Italian is a sacred relationship (We got got even with the Americans by referring them as MEDIGANS. This is another dialect term for which I have no idea how it would be spelled but it is spelled here phonetically.  Being a member a bridal party is the first way to establish this relationship because you are at the alter with the bride and groom and are witness to this religious sacrament. Many times, family members are part of the wedding party but just as many times, friends were chosen.

The second and probably more important religious connection was through Baptism. Being chosen as Godmother and Godfather was an important privilege.  This established your connection with the family and it was meant to mean everlasting.  You then became connected with your Godparents families, if they were not already connected.

I love the above picture so much. It SAYS more than I can ever aptly put into words. This picture was probably taken in 1948. The baby in this picture is me. The little boy in front of me is cousin Rocco. The older boy is cousin Dan and the girl is my sister Annette. The man upon whose lap I am sitting, is my Godfather, Salvatore Imbraguglio (I will have more to say about him and his family in a another blog). And the faceless man in the background is my father. I just love this picture, it’s so indicative of my Italian-American family experience. In this picture are members of my immediate family, my dad and sister; members of my extended family, my cousins; and my godfather, who though not related by blood, is connected to me by religion.

I wondered what recipe I could use with this narrative and because this is the Lenten Season, I thought I would use this one.  Enjoy.  And please add your comments at the end of this narrative.  If you would like to see some specific recipe please add that to your comment also.

 

                                                   ROASTED STUFFED PEPPERS

 

4 medium onions or red peppers

1 package (10 ounce) frozen chopped spinach, thawed

1 egg

1 lb. fresh ricotta cheese or 1 lb. feta cheese, crumbled

1-teaspoon black pepper

2 cloves minced garlic

1/2 cup grated Romano, Parmesan or Asiago cheese

Preheat oven to 375 degrees

1.  Cut tops off of pepper and remove pulp and seeds and set aside. Set in roasting pan.

2.  Drain off excess water from spinach and set in large mixing bowl.

3.  Add remaining ingredients and mix.

4.  Fill centers of peppers with mixture and bake for 50 minutes.